Lessons In Grooming
02-08-2020
Even the briefest ride on the NYC subway is an adventure. Depending on the subway car and your particular mood at the time, you can either be delighted or tortured by the cast of characters you will encounter. If you take a moment to look away from your book of choice or the latest mobile game, you can check out some of the trendiest hairstyles imaginable. Skyscraper-esque pompadours, sculpted afros, waxed buns, and wild curls that would make Jon Snow jealous. Now you might think I am talking about NYC women, but the scenes I described are actually NYC men. NYC men are at the top of the global grooming food chain. Men's stores are overflowing with hair products, clippers, beard lotions and moisturizers. Whatever product you can think of, it looks like NYC men are taking full advantage. If NYC men were taking so much time to look this good, I had to find out what was going on. Intrigued, I decided to go to the source and sit down with three of NYC's finest men's barbers/stylists and get to the root of the NYC man's obsession with good hair.
THE COMMUNITY SUPERSTAR.
With a name like Denny Moe's Superstar Barbershop you know right away you are entering a special place. Denny Moe, the owner of the eponymously named shop, is a superstar in every way that matters. Hailing from a humble background and maintaining a commitment to his community, he has created a special shop in Harlem. Denny is the barber of choice from the average Joe's to numerous celebrities who are looking for the freshest look.
Q. What makes Denny Moe's one of the most iconic barbershops in NYC?
A. We sell more than nice haircuts, we sell ourselves and our passion for the neighborhood. We are community-based. We are always doing something together with our neighbors, and not many barbershops do that. We have a reading space in the back for children, and we offer free health checkups such as blood pressure screening.
Q. You have been a barber for a long time (34 years). I am sure you have seen generations of fathers & sons. What makes the relationship between the barber and the customer so strong and enduring?
A. I have been doing this for so long that my customers are like my family. This is a place where if you can have a conversation, we turn off the radio and TV. We start talking with everybody in the shop. If you are new here, you are going to be thrown in the conversation and will feel immediately part of the family. Haircutting is a bonding session, an experience. I want to create an informal and comfortable environment, clients can bring their food and relax like they are at home. I always encourage fathers to come in with their young sons because "going to the barber" is an experience that makes the relationship father-son stronger, and little boys behave like "big boys" and try to impress their dads.
Q. Often the bartender is like a counselor. Do you see any similarities in your role as a barber? Do your clients share their personal stories?
A. I have heard so many different stories. The difference between the barber and the bartender is that 9 times out of 10 if a person is coming to drink they already have problems, if they come to the barbershop they are still trying to figure it out and maybe we can provide them some clarity.
Q. What has been the most requested hairstyle at Denny Moe's lately? How do you keep up on trends and shifting taste?
A. "South of France" is a very popular haircut. It is almost like a mohawk, but it is an Afro, and you use a sponge to make it nappy. Usher actually brought over the look. He is a big pioneer. You always have to be in learning mode, be open to new things. Once you understand that change is inevitable, you want to stay on top of it. I am young at heart and I am surrounded by young people, so I keep myself updated.
THE OLD SCHOOL PERFECTIONIST.
Stepping into Ludlow Blunt in Williamsburg is like stepping into a museum or a Hollywood set. This barbershop is so unique and polished, it's not a coincidence that it has been featured in numerous movies and TV shows. Each design piece, tool, and accessory are collectibles that come with a story. In Ludlow Blunt they have found a new life. Russell Manley, the founder, makes all the selections himself and you can expect that same precision and attention to detail in your haircut.
Q. What motivated you to be a barber?
A. Creativity is the first thing; unlike other crafts and art, hairdressing is impermanent. You create a haircut or style, and it grows out, it changes, it turns into something else, and you have the opportunity to do it all over again. Your work/skill/art, whatever you wish to call it, never lasts. That appeals to me on some level.
Q. What makes Ludlow Blunt different from another barber experience? Ludlow Blunt has such a strong and unique interior design and style, what inspired it? Who designed it?
A. What makes us different from other barbershops is our appeal to women. We are all trained in women's cutting as well, so our approach is very different from a barber. Perhaps more technical. I know there are many barbershops that champion their macho credentials. Serving only men, pouring whiskey, etc., and there is obviously a need for that, but we regard ourselves as 'inclusive' not 'exclusive'. Our attention to detail regarding the interior is very important to me. The extra effort to achieve authenticity and display the craftsmanship of the interior is what sets many barbershops apart in my opinion. If you care about the space, it follows you'll care more about the customer's finished haircut and care. I designed and found all aspects of the interior. Even down to our back mirrors, which we had custom made in walnut and antiqued silver leaf. These small details are what counts, and very few barbershops go that extra distance.
Q. Why do you think your concept has been so successful?
A. I believe the concept is appealing because the shop looks friendly and inviting. A retro interior often gives the feeling of warmth, reliability grown over time, and accessibility. The stark modern salons of the past few decades seem to be more of a cool streamline barrier, a rigid front that can appear hostile and unapproachable rather than inviting and welcoming. The other key to success is, of course, the quality of the work you're creating! Our rigorous in house training is around 3yrs. When I hear of barbers training in 6-10 months or even shorter! I wince.
Q. Are there hair and beard trends at the moment our readers should be aware of? What are the three grooming essentials that every man should have?
A. We have championed the classic short back and sides for years now and have seen it slide into the mainstream. We're seeing a return to shorter beards, and even some guys starting to grow the sides a little longer. The main thing I've seen in my 30-year career has been how much more men care about their appearance. Grooming has grown in leaps and bounds, and it's great to see this carry on. Regarding the grooming essentials, these are my suggestions: Water-based product that suits hair type and style. Comb. Always carry with you manners and a hint of swagger.
THE NIGHTLIFE GURU.
The East Village's The Blind Barber has a simple concept: barbershop by day and speakeasy by night. It is a cultural hub that attracts its guests to not only indulge in impeccable grooming sessions but also to sample some of the best drinks in town. Tattoos, liquors, and beards have never been more in harmony than here. I met with head barber Rob McMillen to learn more about this realm of the modern man and his rituals.
Q. Could you name three of the most popular haircuts and drinks served at the Blind Barber?
A. It's hard to pick up three most popular haircuts, we have such a diverse client base, but we do see quite a few guys going for a very short cropped side, a lot of fading and leaving some length on the top. Traditional undercut has been very popular. The classic gentleman's haircut is never out of style. Cocktail-wise we still pay attention to the classics, Old Fashion, Manhattan, Martini, and seasonal cocktails like the "Smoke & Dagger" which is a spicy take on tequila.
Q. What makes the Blind Barber one of the coolest barbershops in town?
A. We are really fortunate to be part of a very creative and diverse community in the East Village. The Blind Barber is a hub where people with different profiles such as creatives, artists, startup, and finance industry come to hang out and have a haircut. We do appointments only. We try to be cognizant of our client's time and customize our service with a complimentary cocktail. Our experience has to cater to all our folks and yet be personal at the same time.
Q. Could you name a celebrity that has the best haircut according to The Blind Barber standards?
A. Daniel Craig. Jon Hamm. Brad Pitt. David Beckham. Men go for styles where there is more utilization of facial hair. Caring without caring. Haircuts got a little bit more loose.
Q. Any grooming tips you want to share with us?
A. Find a look you find comfortable and confident with. You can take input from a barber and stylist, but you have to go for something that represents the real you. It is always good to remain confident. If there is a trend, we still want to make sure that the client is comfortable with it. We want to educate and make sure whatever we do is going to work for the client and be a great fit.
Written by Veronica Baesso-McKenzie
Photos by Annalisa Mazzoli