Fashions fade. Style is eternal

- Yves Saint Laurent

NYFW SS ‘25

A Stylish Return to Timeless Elegance: Art Hearts Fashion at Angel Orensanz Foundation

The Acme of the Event

On the evening of September 5, 2023, the iconic Angel Orensanz Foundation in New York transformed into a breathtaking runway, setting the stage for one of the most highly anticipated events of the 2025 Spring/Summer season. Organized by Art Hearts Fashion, this edition of New York Fashion Week was a visual celebration of craftsmanship, culture, and sartorial sophistication. The event’s highlight was the presentation of two standout collections: Galit Levi’s high-fashion designs and Montecristi NYC’s timeless hats.

Galit Levi’s creations were nothing short of magnificent, embodying a unique fusion of elegance and femininity. Known for her ability to craft luxurious, ethereal gowns, Levi presented a series of dresses that seemed to float down the runway. Her choice of fabrics—soft chiffons, delicate lace, and satin—combined with subtle, sparkling embellishments, gave the collection an almost dreamlike quality. The silhouettes, ranging from flowy A-lines to structured ball gowns, emphasized femininity without sacrificing strength. The designs walked a fine line between classic beauty and modern sensibilities, capturing the essence of what high fashion should be.

Montecristi NYC’s hats provided the perfect complement to Levi’s collection. The brand, celebrated for its handcrafted Panama hats, showcased a range of styles that exuded sophistication. Each hat, painstakingly made from the finest Ecuadorian toquilla straw, carried with it a story of tradition and artistry. These weren’t mere accessories but statement pieces that elevated each look to new heights of elegance. The juxtaposition of Levi’s soft, feminine dresses with Montecristi NYC’s structured, classic hats created a stunning balance, embodying both the spirit of timelessness and the modern-day woman’s desire for versatile, elegant fashion.

A Return to Classic American Fashion

This year’s edition of New York Fashion Week felt like a return to the foundations of American style, and not just in the pieces presented by Galit Levi and Montecristi NYC. Many, including myself, have labeled this show as a much-needed revival of old-time classics and vintage aesthetics. The collections from iconic designers such as Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger solidified this sentiment, demonstrating a shift back to the understated elegance that once defined American fashion on the global stage.

Ralph Lauren’s collection was a homage to the very ethos of American luxury—tailored, preppy, and refined. Crisp white suits, wide-brimmed hats, and breezy nautical influences reflected the effortless sophistication of East Coast leisure. The fabrics—linen, cotton, and soft silks—spoke of comfort and quality, a far cry from the fast-paced, trend-driven fashion that has dominated the last decade.

Tommy Hilfiger, on the other hand, embraced Americana with his signature blend of preppy and casual, but with a new sense of restraint. Gone were the oversized logos and bold branding that characterized his past collections. Instead, this season featured a more subtle approach—classic trench coats, denim in its most luxurious form, and an earthy color palette reminiscent of the American countryside. Both designers’ collections contributed to the idea that this season is about refinement and a reconnection with American fashion’s roots, rather than the rapid-fire trends of recent years.

The Future of American High Fashion

In the current landscape of economic instability, rampant overproduction, and the relentless churn of online trends, the fashion world seems to be undergoing a transformation. American high fashion, specifically, is rediscovering its roots, steering away from ephemeral fast fashion and back towards the pillars of craftsmanship, originality, and quality. This edition of New York Fashion Week felt like a clear reflection of this shift.

While instant trends still dominate many sectors, there’s a growing appreciation for garments and accessories that stand the test of time. The collections presented this season—be it Galit Levi’s dreamy, meticulously crafted dresses or Montecristi NYC’s artisanal hats—served as a reminder that fashion is, at its core, an art form. It’s an industry that thrives when creativity meets craftsmanship, when designers pour their passion into each stitch, each fabric choice, and each silhouette.

Moreover, a bit of irreverence seems to be creeping back into the mix, too—just enough to keep things fresh. Designers are not simply reviving old classics but are reinterpreting them for today’s world, offering timeless styles that speak to modern sensibilities. In doing so, they are making a bold statement: that American fashion, even in the face of global uncertainties, is reclaiming its place on the world stage, not by chasing fleeting trends but by celebrating its unique history, craftsmanship, and enduring elegance.

As we move forward into the 2025 Spring/Summer season, it’s clear that American fashion is evolving—growing more thoughtful, deliberate, and ultimately, more timeless.

Article and photos by Joseph Ralph Fraia - jrfstudio.com - @jrfstudio

MET Presents In America: An Anthology of Fashion

‘In America: An Anthology of Fashion’ is the second of the two-part exhibition about fashion in the United States.

The exhibition covers the period of US men's and women’s fashion from the 18th century to the present. Each room represents a certain time in the history of American fashion, showcasing both clothing and interiors of the time.

The first room, The Baltimore Dining Room, shows American Fashion and French Style. Then, narrow silhouettes and high waistlines characterized Parisian dresses. A lot of fashion-conscious American women, though, modified French dresses at the time to make them more simple and modest.

The next room of the exhibition, The Benkard Room, represented American Fashion And British Style (early 19th century). These dresses were of subtle, simple designs; some dresses had puff sleeves typical for the time.

Wedding dresses were also shown as a part of the exhibition in the Renaissance Revival Room, Meriden, Connecticut, 1868-1870. Here, attention is placed on Ann Lowe, a designer who specialized in wedding dresses for prominent women. Her designs displayed strong silhouettes and rich ornamentation. For example, one of her wedding dresses recalled 19th-century bridal traditions by placing three-dimensional lilies on the lower part of the dress.

Visitors then move to the Greek Revival Parlor and the Rococo Revival Parlor of 1835-1850 NYC. Ionic columns at the entrance of the room, lighter colors, simpler furniture - all this was a representation of a Greek style.

Unlike the Greeks, the Rococo style amazed with its pompous furniture, copied after Rococo designs from Louis XVth's reign. Cabriole legs of the armchairs and sofas, naturalistic carvings, were presented in a Rococo Revival Parlor of 1950.

The exhibition's last room, Frank Lloyd Wright Room of Wayzata, Minnesota, 1912-1914, represented an early 20th-century style with its modernistic wooden furniture and square-shaped desk lamps.

The dresses by Charles James, presented in the room, were also brave and modern, showing the artistic view of the designer. They are characterized by complex understructures and “unconventional seaming to transform the wearer's silhouette, often with allusions to the natural world.”

In America: An Anthology of Fashion takes visitors on a 200-year journey through US fashion and architecture, showing us Americans’ personal life and politics. Fashion, interior, and culture could be found in the exhibition.

The first part of the exhibition, In America: A Lexicon of Fashion, is now on view in the Anna Wintour Costume Center. Both shows are open until September 5, 2022.

Article by Mary Zakharova

Editing by Joseph R. Fraia

Met Gala 2022

One of the most awaited events this May was probably the Met Gala. This year it was finally scheduled at its usual time, the first Monday of May. But unfortunately, due to the pandemic, the Met Gala in 2020 was canceled, and in 2021- it was moved to September.

This year’s theme was In America: An Anthology of Fashion. That is the second part of last year’s Met-Gala theme, ‘In America: A Lexicon of Fashion.’ The themes are connected to Andrew Bolton’s exhibitions at the Metropolitan Museum of Art with the same names.

The theme represented the history and evolution of American style - and was reflected in the dress code: the Gilded Glamour, White Tie.

One of the most noticeable outfits was probably presented by this year’s host of the Met Gala, Blake Lively, who appeared at the Metropolitan Museum of Art with her husband, Ryan Reynolds.

Lively chose a Versace dress that represented the architecture of New York City, in particular, the Statue of Liberty. Lively stepped on the red carpet in a copper-colored dress. In the middle of her walk, she surprised everybody with an outstanding performance by flipping the train of her dress and revealing a blueish color, the same one that copper gets when it oxidizes.

Kim Kardashian appeared on the red carpet wearing a vintage Jean Louis dress in which Marilyn Monroe was singing “Happy Birthday Mr. President” 60 years ago in 1962. Kardashian said she had to lose some weight to fit in the dress. “I didn’t starve myself, but I was so strict,” she told Vogue.

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The star only wore the dress for a couple of minutes, though. Because of the historical value of the dress, Kardashian didn’t want to risk accidentally putting a stain on or ripping it, so after the red carpet, she changed it into a replica.

Gigi Hadid chose a bright red leather jumpsuit by Versace paired with a corset and voluminous coat of color. The supermodel’s outfit went viral. Always in style, Hadid didn’t disappoint her fans this time. She told Vogue that she wanted to show her one-year-old what it means to balance and own life.

Kylie Jenner’s bridal look for the Met Gala was controversial. Jenner appeared wearing a wedding gown by Virgil Abloh designed for Off-White. She paired it with a white baseball cap turned backward and a short netted veil attached to it with some flowers on top.

Some of the Twitter users share an opinion that this year’s Met Gala guests couldn’t understand the theme of the event very well. But even though some of the looks may be controversial, all of them have a story that, in one way or another, approaches and reflects the evolution of American fashion.

Article by Mary Zakharova

Editing by Joseph R. Fraia

Designer Anthony Rubio - Model Keilahri - Photo Joseph R. Fraia

The Fashion Week of New York in the year 2022

It’s February, and New York is ready for the next wave of fashion. From February 11 through February 16, some of the most prominent designers will be presenting their Fall/Winter collections at New York Fashion Week 2022.

While the excitement is palpable, obstacles remain. No matter how much we are trying to “get back to normal,” COVID-19 is forcing changes to many schedules. For example, Tom Ford, whose show was supposed to be closing Fashion Week on February 16, announced on January 24th that due to COVID-19 outbreaks in his design studios in Los Angeles, he had to cancel the show. In a statement, Ford said, “We have tried everything possible to avoid canceling our New York show but ultimately are faced with the sad fact that we will simply not have a completed collection on time….”

The world-renowned designer noted that he is “incredibly disappointed” to miss New York Fashion Week, as in-person presentations are still the best way to convey the meaning and messages of the collection. While Ford will be missing from NYFW, he promised to release his collection as a digital lookbook later this year.

On January 26th, Thom Browne stated that he is also not going to participate in the New York Fashion Week, but this time for a different reason: to support his boyfriend, Andrew Bolton. Bolton works at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, where he is the Wendy Yu curator in charge of the Costume Institute. Under his direction, the Met has been presenting an ongoing exhibition: “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion.” Browne has decided to move his show to April 29, six days before the second part of this exhibition, “In America: An Anthology of Fashion,” is presented.

“It is important for me to continue our celebration of American design and support Andrew’s second exhibition on American fashion at The Met,” – said Browne in the statement. “There is so much individuality and creativity behind American design,” said Browne.

Browne’s new show date is also just a few days before the May 2nd Met Gala in honor of Bolton’s exhibit. In his statement, Browne had the following to say: “The CFDA’s American Collections Calendar is designed to support American designers to show

when and how is best for them. Being able to showcase this in the best way, to create something truly unique and at the highest standards, and to truly support Andrew’s vision for the strength and importance of American design and fashion.”

However, not all is lost for Browne fans. During the New York Fashion Week, Browne will reveal some of the details of his Fall 2022 unisex collection. And other prominent designers still plan on attending the festivities.

New York designer LaQuan Smith made a splash last year, as his fashion show on the roof of the Empire State Building was probably the most extravagant of all the shows. Smith has confirmed he will present his new collection as well. He hasn’t revealed any details of the collection yet, but his previous one was dedicated to New York’s comeback and was intended to inspire women to feel sexy and alive again.

While many people remain concerned about the potential spread of the Omicron variant, the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) announced that most of the shows will be in person, with all the COVID-19 safety protocol followed. Noah Kozlowski, IMG Fashion’s director of designer relations and development, explained to Reuters, “The biggest challenge will be for the decision-makers of who gets to attend the shows since across the board there will be decreased capacities similar to what we saw last season.”

Even though we don’t know any details yet, with the ongoing trend of functional clothes, comfortable textures, and animal prints, that recently came back to us, I will be waiting for more soft and fuzzy teddy bear coats, oversized winter jackets, and leopard prints.

I am so looking forward to covering my first Fashion Week as a correspondent for Livein Magazine.

Article by Mary Zakharova

Editing by Joseph R. Fraia

Photos by Joseph R. Fraia - jrfstudio.com

Designer Ivory Made it - Model Cheyenne - Photo Joseph R. Fraia

Designer Tiye Eliza - Model Miho Takahashi - Photo Joseph R. Fraia

SR by Sonali Raman

Comfortable. Colorful. Sustainable.

@srdoha

Sonali Raman debuted her SS2022 Summer Sorbet collection during NYFW at Selina Hotel & Rooftop in Chelsea

The Sonali Raman SS2022 Summer Sorbet collection debuted during New York Fashion Week at Selina Hotel & Rooftop in Chelsea as part of the Summer In Style Show. The Summer In Style Show produced by Shop Local Designers, Find Your ID NYC, and Live In Magazine highlighted the best in womenswear, beachwear, and resort wear brands.

Interview with the Designer by Joseph Ralph Fraia

SR by Sonali Raman was born out of a love for all things traditional in fabrics, crafts and an appreciation for the old-fashioned ways of consuming sensibly, buying responsibly, living mindfully and caring for the environment.

“I started my brand’s journey with a desire to create products that I would be proud to own and wear; apparel and jewelry that reflects the contemporary while retaining the essence of the traditional. Every piece I design reflects what my brand stands for – Contemporary Styles, Traditional Ethos.”

Sonali draws inspiration from the natural fabrics of India and the abundance of artisanry that exists in India - from the Himalayan regions to Kanyakumari and from Goa to Bengal.

“An integral part of my brand is to revive long forgotten crafts and help artisans who have been forced to work in other professions as consumers had discarded the intrinsic beauty of these crafts and turned to fast fashion and conspicuous, even reckless consumption at a pace that is endangering our planet.

My years as a merchandiser for some of the biggest international high street brands taught me well. I learnt that it is not quantity, but quality, that matters. I learnt to be inclusive, not exclusive. I learnt that I did not want to compete in the thoughtless race that was jeopardizing the planet. I learnt that if I wanted people to make sustainable and responsible choices, I need to be a part of those who offer them that.

As a part of the sustainable fashion community, I show the way that being fashion-conscious goes beyond being fashionable and trendy; it is the act of being conscious about consumption, waste and the footprint that we leave behind. Fashion is not wearing something new every day of the week or every season. Fashion is not splurging on products that don’t last beyond a few wears.

And from this emerged the core pillars of my brand, SR by Sonali Raman.”

Mindfulness: Each of our products is created keeping in mind its impact on our earth. Choosing fabrics that are a blend of natural and biodegradable elements. Training unskilled women in finishing and embroidery, thereby supporting families with a much needed second income. Creating products out of leather and fabric that would otherwise be discarded. Using cloth bags to package our merchandize. Offering new collections at a slow pace, with limited lines for each style. A part of our mission is to employ unskilled, underprivileged women and train them to finish garments, hand embroider and add handmade embellishments. Women who otherwise would be ‘unemployable’ in any other industry are now a second source of income for their families.

Cultural Sustainability- Supporting Traditional Crafts and Textiles: Each of our products is intrinsically linked to India’s rich repository of crafts and textiles. Fabrics that we use are mostly handloom and hand spun the traditional way. From textiles that are mass produced, we consciously choose those that are incorporate some natural elements and are biodegradable. The embellishments in our jewelry hark back to the ancient artisanal crafts of zardozi and the hand embroideries in our apparel echo the simple stitches that the Indian women in villages use in their daily lives.

Zardozi is intricate embroidery that has always been done on textiles. To use this craft on leather to make our jewelry required us to upskill our artisans to work with new materials – leather. We spent several months retraining them to use their inherited skills on new materials and the results were nothing short of stunning!

Being Inclusive: We strive to be truly inclusive in everything that we do. This means that our apparel is meant for every single woman out there, irrespective of her color, race or size. We do not endorse form fitting and bodycon styles that excludes all the women who do not conform to those sizes and are not comfortable wearing styles that promote a certain body shape. Our silhouettes are anti-fit, yet sleek. Flared, yet fitted. Comfortable, yet fashionable. Flowing, yet draping. Our brand does not ‘see’ color, race, age or body shapes. We only see women: women who want to be consciously fashionable and comfortable with who they are.